There are two structural types of filigree, ‘open-work’ where the jewel is built up by the actual weave of the wires, or, ‘surface filigree’ where the wire is twisted, plaited, curled and shaped and then laid down and soldered with great delicacy to pattern the surface creating a kind of ‘gold on gold’ lavish embroidery.


To make filigree wire you have to draw it out from a sheet of metal and then twist and shape it accordingly. Lalaounis applied the filigree technique in bold and innovative ways to create exquisitely refined pieces of jewelry.

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